At 22,841 feet, Cerro Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas and is surpassed in height only by the mighty Himalayan Mountains of Asia. (It ranks 54th in the world.) However, unlike many of the high Himalayan peaks, Aconcagua lies within 20 miles of a major trans-Andean highway running between Santiago, Chile, and Mendoza, Argentina, making it one of the most accessible large mountains in the world.
Although by its normal route of ascent the mountain has been climbed from base camp to summit in as little as 7-9 hours, it is generally climbed over a period of several days necessitating the establishment of up to three camps on the mountain. This aspect of Aconcagua, together with a reputation for highly variable and sometimes severe weather, gives the “Stone Sentinel” the feel of a real expedition peak. Only a third of the roughly 2,000 people who attempt to climb Aconcagua each year reach the summit. Bad weather is the main culprit. On an average, only 1 person per year loses their life in the attempt. This is a safety record that rivals many smaller 14,000′ peaks in the United States. It is not a mountain to be taken lightly, though. In the 1998 season, the mountain took 10 lives, most due to the severe weather brought on by El Nino.
The atmospheric pressure at the summit of Aconcagua is less than half that of sea level. Oxygen diffuses from the lungs into the blood because the gas pressure in the air is greater than in the blood. Atmospheric pressure decreases with altitude which means less oxygen is being pushed into the blood stream. In a healthy person at sea level, blood is 95% saturated with oxygen. At 18,000ft it is only 71% saturated and is carrying 29% less oxygen.
It had been nearly 15 years since I’d read an article in Newsweek about the writer’s journey to Argentina and his successful summit of Aconcagua. He had portrayed himself as a relatively average person with no mountaineering experience who was able to accomplish something he had never dreamed about doing. At about the same time my father-in-law had returned from Mexico. He and a buddy had hired a guide who took them around 15,000 feet up a mountain. So those two incidents planted the seed for what started two days after my 48th birthday on January 28, 2001.
Sunday, the 28th
It was a gray, misty day with low clouds and mild temperatures as I left Northwest Arkansas Regional Airport. The American Airlines flight took off and was quickly engulfed in the clouds.
I closed my eyes for a minute or two. When I opened them, much to my surprise, we were above the clouds. Heading southwest, I could see the remains of the sunset. An orange band merging into light blue and, finally, dark blue/black. The stars were clearly seen.
Looking down, the clouds seemed like the landscape of another planet. (Maybe we would fire our retrorockets and land?) Off in the distance a black mass rose above this alien landscape. From time to time lightening lit the inside of this dark cloud.
And then, slowly, we began descending to the surface. The now dark, rolling landscape came closer and closer. Soon we were engulfed in the clouds. Several minutes later we emerge and land—not on Jupiter or Neptune, but Dallas.
So far, so good.
Almost missed the flight from Dallas to Santiago, though. When I checked in at XNA, the agent wrote on my boarding pass the gate in Dallas—A39—that the Santiago flight left from. When I arrived in Dallas I checked the monitor for the gate number of my connecting flight—still A39.
So I went to the gate and, since I already had my boarding pass, simply sat down with everyone else. Well, about 20 minutes before my flight was scheduled to leave, they start boarding a flight to Sao Paulo, Brazil. Whoa!!! Then I catch an announcement about “Santiago”. At the counter they say my flight is now boarding at Gate A25. So I got my exercise hustling back the way I came and was one of the last few to board the plane. Nearly 9 hours later we land in Santiago, Chile.
Monday, the 29th
It was going to be a very tight connection in Santiago. The Lan Chile flight to Mendoza, Argentina was scheduled to leave at 11:00am. My American Airlines flight was scheduled to arrive at 9:25am. However, it landed 25 minutes behind schedule.
Since I had booked the flights separately I now had to go through Immigration—pay a fee—get my checked bag, go through Customs, and then check in at the Lan Chile counter.
Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. After deplaning, I entered the gate area and found an American Airlines representative. I gave her my story and she said, “No, no. There’s no way you can make it like that.” She wrote down my baggage claim number on her arm and said she’d get my bag and have it put on the Lan Chile flight. She then directed me upstairs to the Lan Chile counter to check in.
There was a slow-moving line at the Lan Chile counter. (Maybe it was fast moving for Latin America?) It looked like two high school girls behind the counter. One spoke only a little English, the other none.
They examined my documents and frowned, shook their heads, typed something into their computer, and then spoke to each other in seemingly serious tones—in Spanish. One finally said, “Your flight is closed.” Then they exchanged some more words and started typing again. I started to ask what was going on but the one who spoke no English held up her hand to stop me. A moment later she said, “Come!”—and took off running towards the gate with me close behind. (Considering she wore high heels she was motoring along pretty well.) At the gate she spoke to the agent who then typed some info into the computer. Then he said, “Go, get on.” I asked about my checked bag. He said it might or might not make this flight. Maybe the later one.
But wait, there’s more….
While sitting on the Lan Chile flight waiting to leave, the girl in high heels who spoke no English came onboard to give me a baggage claim ticket and said, “Baggage OK.”
And so we were off!
Going from Santiago to Mendoza means flying over the Andes. They’re the spine of South America, running the length of the continent. Lots of peaks in the 18-20,000 foot range. Lots of snow even though it’s Summer here.
Landing in Mendoza reminded me a lot like landing in Las Vegas. It looked almost desert-like with mountains ringing the city. While waiting to go through Immigration and Customs I met Mike Smith, one of my expedition members. He had been on the same Lan Chile flight. Mike is an airline mechanic for Delta and based in Atlanta. Since he worked for Delta he got a free ride—which saved a bundle. Mike has a lot more technical climbing experience. He’s climbed several tough peaks around the world and plans to do Denali next year.
Our ride to the hotel–Daniel–was waiting for us. We end up sharing a room at the Del Sol hotel in downtown Mendoza.
Tuesday, the 30th
In the morning we meet the some of the guides for the expedition. They checked our gear to make sure we have everything needed. For those who need something, we’ll have an opportunity after lunch to go to a gear rental store.
At 4pm we leave Mendoza for the 3-hour trip to Puente del Inca. On the way we pass the region where the film, “Seven Years in Tibet”, was shot.
We wound our way along the mountain highway in our full-laden van. Ten of us in the van plus gear in back and on top. The driver, though, thought he was driving a powerful sports car. Many times he passed slower-moving trucks on blind curves or going uphill. Well, our luck held and we had no head-on crashes and only a few close calls.
We arrived at the “hotel” in Puente del Inca. It had a very nice restaurant. We slept in dormitory-style rooms that were better than expected. Tomorrow we begin our 3-day hike to Plaza de Mulas. A large portion of our gear will go by mule. We’ll just carry daypacks and sleeping bags. Hopefully, the weather will hold and be as nice as today. (However, tonight is very windy!)
Wednesday, the 31st
I went to sleep pretty quickly last night. But after a couple of hours I woke up with a very rapid heartbeat—it was just pounding away. That went on for about an hour. (Perhaps I was thinking about Dale?) Puente del Inca is at around 8,000 feet but it hadn’t seemed to bother me earlier in the day. At any rate, I eventually calmed down and the rest of the night was uneventful.
After breakfast we hopped into vans—broken down trucks, actually—that took us about two miles to the Park entrance. Park Rangers checked our permits and assigned us garbage bags that we are required to return at the end.
So our hike begins. It was a very comfortable pace. Sunny with winds of probably 30-40 mph were present most of the day. It was very comfortable with the wind tempering the heat of the sun.
It took around 4 hours to Confluencia—our camp for two nights. Twice we crossed the Horcones River. The first was on a wooden suspension bridge about 30 yards across. When I walked on it, it really bounced up and down. (It could’ve been an amusement park ride.)
The second bridge was more stable but had a series of wooden slats spaced probably 8-10 inches apart (It felt farther.). You have to make very sure you didn’t misplace your step.
Thursday, the 1st
It got cold last night—someone said 5 above. (However, no wind.) It sure didn’t feel that cold. I was toasty warm in my sleeping bag. In fact, after a couple of hours I starting sweating and had to unzip the bag. My bag is rated to –20 degrees. So if it really was 5 degrees and I was sweating, then there’s a good chance my bag will keep me warm as we near the top.
Breakfast was at 8am in the mess tent. I have now drunk more coffee in the past few days than in probably 5 years combined.
We left at 9:30am for an acclimatization hike to Plaza Francia. It was uphill all the way. (Of course, on the bright side, it’s downhill all the way back.) Plaza Francia has a beautiful view of the south face of Aconcagua. While there, we saw an avalanche. We kidded the guides about how well-planned everything is.
Speaking of the guides, Eduardo is the Latin version of Zach (my son). He’s 21, tall, same body build, and a very friendly personality. He’s been a guide since he was 16. He brought along his CD player and some small speakers. He puts the speakers in the side pockets of his backpack where the water bottles usually go. I told him he ought to market the idea.
It was another beautiful day to hike. Absolutely no clouds. Of course, the wind picked up in the afternoon. We returned to Confluencia around 4pm.
I did quite well. No headaches and I was able to maintain a steady pace near the lead pack.
Giuseppe from Italy and Mr. Yamamoto from Japan are the oldest in our group at 58. Giuseppe is a very strong hiker. The two guys from Japan have been consistently bringing up the rear.
Tomorrow we have an 8-hour hike to Plaza de Mulas. Supposedly, it’s easier terrain than today. (However, the trail leaving Confluencia looks straight up!)
So far I feel surprisingly good. My sinuses are bothering me a lot, but I’m not sore and I don’t feel wiped out.
Funny Story: After our return from Plaza Francia I was using the latrine. My sunglasses were hanging from the front of my shirt. When I reached forward for the toilet paper my sunglasses fell, hit the floor once, and bounced into the pit. (What are the odds of that?) On this kind of expedition sunglasses are essential. That’s why people bring along spares—as I did. Unfortunately, they were with the gear that went ahead to Plaza de Mulas. So that meant they had to be fished out of the pit. With aid of Frederico we were able to retrieve them. (That little keychain-size light Dale got me proved essential.) Needless to say, I spent quite some time cleaning them.
Friday, the 2nd
I started developing an upset stomach during dinner last night. That turned into a slight case of diarrhea. In the morning my stomach was still churning around. I had a cracker and some coffee for breakfast. Otherwise, I feel strong.
We started our hike at 8:30am. For the most part it was easier than the previous day’s hike. We crossed several streams created by glacier runoff. For some, we use our walking poles to pole vault across. While the streams were probably only 1-2 feet deep, the water was very cold.
For several hours we walked across a broad plain strewn with rocks. That seemed to take a lot of energy. (We take breaks about every hour.)
At the end of the plain we took another break. I felt more tired than yesterday. The remaining 2 hours or so will be uphill.
We continued on.
Now the trail was almost all switchbacks. We reach one steep spot where a mountain stream cuts through the trail. It was wide enough and rocky enough and the water rushing fast enough that one couldn’t walk or pole vault across. A wooden board no more than 6 inches wide spanned the stream. No handrail, no rope—just the board. (Did I mention that the wind was blowing pretty good, as well?)
Several people walked across with their packs with no problem. Now my turn.
I took a couple of tentative steps but felt I wouldn’t make another one so I backed off. Frederico, one of our excellent guides, scurried over to me from the other side. (He went across the board like a mountain goat!) He took my pack and poles across. So I tried it again. Same result. So Frederico suggested sitting down on the board and scooting across. This I did successfully. Frederico got a “Mucho Gracias” from me. I didn’t feel so bad about my method of crossing when Adriana, another of the guides, did it the same way.
Our next rest stop was Old Plaza de Mulas which is just a broken down structure sitting on a ridge. I was pretty tired. In actual distance it wasn’t much farther. However, it was to be an hour going uphill on 45-degree slopes.
I stayed with the lead pack as I had all day. In a race, even if you’re tired, you stay with the pack and let them pull you along.
So I focused on putting one foot after the other. I rarely looked up—because when I did the top looked sooooooo far away. I didn’t look down because it was a long way to the bottom. So I didn’t see much scenery other than the dirt in front of my shoes.
But finally I reached the top. Then it was a short walk across a saddle to Hotel Refugio. Yea!!!!! The time was 3:30pm. Seven hours. We made it to the “hotel” and, of course, our bunks were on the 3rd floor.
I have never been so dead tired. I’ll say it again–I have never been so dead tired. The previous record for “tiredness” was when I’d hiked across the Grand Canyon in one day. This was twice that.
It wasn’t that my muscles felt tired or that I was sore. My energy level was at zero.
I fell into my bunk and tried to sleep until dinner at 7pm.
After dinner—which was very good–I went straight to bed and slept very well.
I was amazed I was able to stay with the lead group all day today. Maybe this is why one does these kinds of things—to test one’s limits.
Saturday, the 3rd
I woke up with a cold! Stuffy nose, cough, congestion, sneezing. So that probably explains why I ran out of gas yesterday. It was the onset of the cold. (As it turns out it was more than that.)
Today is a rest day for the expedition. Good thing because I don’t know how much I could do. Tomorrow we are scheduled to hike around the glacier. It’s, again, part of the acclimatization process and gives us practice with our crampons. I’m really concerned this cold will keep me from going higher.
Random Thought: I find I’m beginning to speak in broken English.
Before lunch today a bunch of us—guides and expedition members—sat outside in the sun. It was very warm. One of the guides, Papi, was wearing T-shirt and shorts. Not bad for around 14,400 feet. From where we were sitting we could see Camp One at 17,000 feet and the trail leading to it. It looked very steep. We watched people move like ants up and down the side of the mountain.
Hotel Refugio probably doesn’t meet any known fire, health, or safety code in the world. It sits at 14,400’ and is about a 30-minute hike from Plaza de Mulas camp. The top floor is like a bunkhouse. Our entire expedition including guides has taken this over. On the first floor is the main desk, ping-pong table, gear area, kitchen, and dining room. The basement houses the lavatory, toilets, and shower. Showers are available from 2-7pm daily. As part of our package, two showers are included. Additional showers cost $10 for 10 minutes.
The toilets are a step—a small step—above outhouses. Plus, they were smaller than a phone booth. They made for some interesting, but better left unsaid, maneuvers.
Random Thought: I find I’m starting to write in broken English.
5:30pm
Just took a hot shower. It felt pretty good to shampoo my hair, which had become pretty grungy.
I still feel pretty congested—both lungs and sinuses. If I were home I wouldn’t play basketball feeling this way.
Sunday, the 4th
A full-fledged cold. Today is a 5-hour hike around the glacier. I don’t know how I’ll do but I’ll give a try.
I took it easy and kept near the rear. But after only a hour I was gasping(!) for breath. Halfway up an easy hill I decided my lungs just weren’t working well enough to proceed. So Eduardo assigned Fabian, one of the guides, to escort me back. Even going down was more tiresome than it should’ve been. (The one plus about going back was that they had steak for lunch.)
In the evening, Gabriel Cabrera, the leader of the expedition, had the doctor come over from the Plaza de Mulas camp to check me and another expedition member. The doctor said my lungs were clear. He recommended I stay at Hotel Refugio tomorrow rather than attempt a carry to Camp One. He also said to make a steam vaporizer and to take short walks with something covering my mouth.
Every day, morning and night, they check our blood/oxygen level and our heart rate:
| Date | Location | Blood/Oxygen | Pulse |
| 1/31 | Puente del Inca | 94 | 91 |
| 1/31 | Confluencia | 90 | 77 |
| 2/1 | Confluencia | 93 | 102 |
| 2/1 | Confluencia | 89 | 95 |
| 2/2 | Confluencia | 86 | 92 |
| 2/3 | Plaza de Mulas | 86 | 94 |
| 2/3 | Plaza de Mulas | 87 | 83 |
| 2/4 | Plaza de Mulas | 86 | 83 |
| 2/4 | Plaza de Mulas | 85 | 84 |
| 2/5 | Plaza de Mulas | 92 | 74 |
| 2/5 | Plaza de Mulas | 91 | 85 |
| 2/6 | Plaza de Mulas | 86 | 88 |
| 2/6 | Plaza de Mulas | 88 | 69 |
| 2/7 | Plaza de Mulas | 88 | 93 |
Monday, the 5th
Apparently something got lost in the translation—so to speak. I’m going to hike the trail to Camp One as far as I can. Everyone else will carry a load to Camp One and then return.
I will hike with Papi. He will go very slowly. (Papi speaks almost no English. He’s 31—though he looks about 20—with a wife and four small children. He always seems to be in fine spirits and is quick to laugh. He has a tremendous body build.)
My arms and legs feel so strong. But my lungs just aren’t doing their job. It is so frustrating to move so slowly when you know you’re capable of better.
It’s another beautiful day. We leave Hotel Refugio and cross over to the Plaza de Mulas camp. Several expedition companies have semi-permanent tents set up. There are some cantina tents that serve food and refreshments. (Coke is $3 a can. Beer is $5.) It takes about 45 minutes to reach the camp. On the way we pass through a field of penitentes—snow spires about 6-7 feet high created by wind erosion. Sort of like walking through a cornfield–albeit a slippery and cold cornfield.
Papi and I trudge slowly up the trail carved into the side of the mountain. We are passed a couple of times by faster hikers. (How embarrassing!) After a couple of hours we reach Conway Rocks at 4600 meters. Here we have a bite to eat. Hotel Refugio looks so far away and so far down!
Since our previous rest stop my coughing had increased and my breathing more rapid. Papi asked if I wanted to go up or down. I thought about it for a couple of minutes. Even though my arms and legs felt great and I had no trace of a headache, I just couldn’t breathe. So we turned around.
Watching Papi in front of me on the way down—as opposed to the dirt in front of my feet on the way up—I marveled at how easy it was for him. Hands in his pockets and listening to his Discman. Like a mountain goat. (Eduardo hikes with his arms folded.)
On the way back we stopped at the Plaza de Mulas camp. Papi took me to one of the cantinas and got me some tea.
While in the tent I met Jim and Ethan from San Diego. They had already made their first carry to Camp One yesterday and were resting before going back up tomorrow. Last year Jim had tried to summit Denali, but after bad weather forced them to stay in their tent for three days, they turned back.
Tomorrow is a rest day. Then back to Camp One. I don’t know if my lungs will be ready. Since I didn’t make a carry today I don’t know how that will be taken care of.
Only one other person in our group didn’t make Camp One. Rob from Toronto, Canada turned back about ¾’s of the way with a very bad headache and extreme tiredness. Robb is a real neatnik. He takes great care folding his clothes and arranging his gear. He seems to be continually washing his clothes or himself. He’s a freelancer in advertising. After leaving Aconcagua he’s going to Iquazou Falls in Brazil and then on to Carnival in Rio de Janeiro. (He’s single.)
Note: My double plastic boots really felt good today.
One of our expedition members is Eddy from Lausanne, Switzerland. He seems a real oddball. Dresses colorfully. Always making jokes. Reminds me of Marcel Marceau. (I know, Marceau was French.) He’s a lab assistant for a chemistry department at a private university. He always wants to be at the front of the pack. Sometimes I worry that he’ll do something dangerous. But he’s a strong hiker and, all-in-all, a nice guy.
Tuesday, the 6th
I didn’t sleep much last night. I really think it’s from lack of exercise over the past few days. The couple of hours hiking up the mountain yesterday really wasn’t that much of a workout. So far today (11:30am) my lungs feel the same as yesterday. Walking from the lavatory in the basement to my bunk on the 3rd floor evokes quite a coughing fit.
Rob is still not feeling well. Still has a headache and didn’t sleep well.
Juan appears to have something wrong. I think it’s stomach cramps.
Right now I’m sitting outside the Hotel. The sun is very bright and very warm. You always carry sunscreen with you. You make sure your nose, ears, and neck are well protected. You also never forget your sunglasses.
It’s 5:33pm and I sure don’t feel any better than yesterday—actually I think I fell slightly worse. Feeling the way I do I notice I’m getting frustrated, cranky, and not happy. Just sitting around—and not feeling well—is boring.
Tonight they’re dividing the group into teams of 4 or 5 according to ability. Each team will have a couple of guides.
Observation: I’ve noticed that none of the members of my group or anyone one we’ve passed has been African-American or black.
Bill and Mike Goins are brothers, each about 6’6”. One is 43 and the other is 39. I never remember which is which so I just call each “BillMike” and they respond.
At this point I’d rather be home. It’s no fun being sick in a foreign country and not be able to accomplish what you set out to do.
Gabriel is now assigning expedition members to teams; and within each team he is assigning tentmates. Three teams, each with three guides, are determined by the abilities each member has demonstrated over the past several days. (Sharks, goldfish, guppies.) I’m assigned to the slowest group.
Tentmates are responsible for assembling/disassembling their tent without it being blown off the mountain—a bad thing. We’ve already practiced with the tents. Some tentmates will be responsible for gathering snow and melting it for water—which takes a while at altitude.
At the end of the meeting I went over to Gabriel and Frederico. Gabriel speaks limited English and Frederico is often his translator, in addition to being the manager of the expedition. I say upfront I don’t feel healthy enough to be successful tomorrow. If anything, I feel slightly worse than yesterday when I could only make it a third of the way with virtually no load. I feel it would be at least 3 or 4 days before I’d be back at 100%.
Frederico urged me to give it a try. If I couldn’t make it I could turn around and try again tomorrow.
I told him I appreciated the offer but it would a waste of everyone’s time. I would struggle—which isn’t fun—and a guide would have to go down with me. I said I had had a great time on my adventure. I had gotten my money’s worth and did things I never thought I’d do.
So it was done.
Tomorrow, I, and two other expedition members who are ill, will return to Puente del Inca.
Wednesday, the 7th
Hardly got any sleep last night. Took a total of 5 aspirin before finally dozing off around 4am.
Everyone was up early, excited about making the move to Camp One.
I prepared my gear for the hike back. Most of my stuff would go by mule.
I said goodbye to many of the expedition members that I had grown to know and like over the past week. I also said goodbye to my favorite guides. I gave Papi a package of batteries for his Discman. To Frederico I gave my never-used crampons. And to Eduardo I gave my plastic boots. (It turns out we’re both size 11.)
And then they’re off.
(The two Japanese men have hired porters.)
And then, shortly later, Rob, Hugo from Buenos Aires, and I started our hike back to Puente del Inca. What we were told was a 6-hour hike was in actuality just over 8 hours. We took a slightly different route that avoided the risky stream crossing on the narrow board.
For three people not felling 100%, we set a pretty quick pace.
As we hike along, one’s mind begins to wander. (Eight hours of hiking will do that.) I notice how many rocks and boulders there are. There seems to be an especially large number along whatever path I take. In fact, this has seemed to be the case wherever in the world I’ve hiked. Has this just been coincidence? Hmmmmm. Heat and dehydration makes one ponder such questions.
We again had to cross the river several times. In the broad plain the glacier runoff cut many meandering channels through it. Each little “river” was only 2-3 feet deep. But it was cold from glacier and muddy, so you wanted to avoid getting wet.
We had gotten fairly agile at pole-vaulting across the rivers. We’d try to find the narrowest width or a place with rocks in the middle to allow an intermediate jump. Most of the time we were pretty successful. But wouldn’t you know, the very last water jump fell short. The best spot we could find for the crossing required jumping to a rock in the middle of the fast-moving current and then, in the same motion because of the distance, a jump to a rock beside the bank. Well, I made the rock in the middle just fine. But as I vaulted into the air for the second time a gust of wind blew me off-course. I just missed the far rock with a big splash. My lower legs landed in the water while the rest of me landed in the mud on the bank.
During the hike we saw several mule caravans carrying supplies and gear. Occasionally, we saw a mule make a run for freedom with a muleteer—in colorful Argentinean garb—in hot pursuit. One chase, in particular, went on for several miles, with the mule dumping its load along the way. Fortunately, it wasn’t our gear, just someone’s garbage.
Thursday, the 8th
We had a nice meal at the restaurant last night. Since we had hiked for over 8 hours we were a little dehydrated. I managed to put away 5 bottles of Pepsi at $2 each.
At noon, we hopped a bus for our return to Mendoza. It was a surprisingly nice bus with reclining seats and plenty of legroom. That’s good because it was a 3½ hour ride with what seemed like stops every mile or so. Much of the countryside reminded me of southern Utah and southern Colorado. With the dilapidated buildings, it looked a lot like the Indian reservations of the Southwest. You’d see a shack that looked like you could push it over with one finger yet it had a DirecTV dish sitting outside.
As we entered town we passed by a Wal-Mart Supercenter. Eventually, we arrived at the bus terminal in Mendoza. This was a jumping place—busier than some airports. We found a taxi and squeezed ourselves and our gear into it for the ride to the hotel where we had started over a week ago.
Since the hotel was pretty much centrally located it was an easy walk to the airlines’ offices to change our flights. Lan Chile didn’t charge anything for the change. The American Airlines representative didn’t charge me anything but said they might charge me when I checked-in in Santiago. (They didn’t.)
Friday, the 9th
Basically killing time until my flight leaves at 8:45pm. Hugo caught a flight last night to Buenos Aires, so he has already left. Rob got a flight tomorrow for Iguazu Falls.
I still feel pretty much the same as I have all week. Even the thicker air and humidity of Mendoza hasn’t gotten rid of this cough and cold. (I’m sure my seatmates on the 9+-hour flight home would appreciate it.)
Observation: There seem to be very little, if any, auto emission controls on the vehicles.
Rob and I get dinner around 6pm (siesta is 1-5pm) at one of the many sidewalk eateries. It’s at the corner of a very busy intersection. Rob observes (Note to Dale: what follows are Rob’s observations.) that the young women of Argentina—or at least, Mendoza—wear extremely tight-fitting clothes. Skirts, pants, shorts, blouses seem almost sprayed on. He also observes they project an attitude of “I’m sexy and I know it.” (Once again, that’s what Rob observed.) (Rob is single, which explains why he gets to spend a week at Carnival in Rio.)
Well, the time has come to leave for home. My ride to the airport arrives 10 minutes early—a good sign. It’s a thrilling ride. I suppose the concept of “lanes” hasn’t caught on in parts of the world yet. Or, perhaps, their concept is slightly different than ours. It appeared to me that a “lane” was wherever our vehicle was on the road. You don’t like the lane your in? Then create a new one! You want to merge two lanes into one? Well, just center your vehicle on the stripe—if there is one—between two lanes. It was one continuous game of chicken between us and other vehicles and pedestrians. Luckily, this time we won.
At the airport I checked in at the Lan Chile counter. I explained to the agent about my checked baggage situation. Could he make it so my checked bag could go all the way home instead of going through Immigration and Customs in Santiago? “Sure, we can do that!” he said in broken English. My luck was holding.
We departed on time and headed west back over the Andes. We saw a beautiful orange sunset over the Pacific Ocean in the distance.
Our plane landed in Santiago and rolled to a stop somewhere away from the terminal. Buses were waiting, however, and we got a nice little tour of the airport at night—no extra charge.
I check in at the American Airlines and the agent says, “Oh, I’m been waiting for you!” It seems I can’t check my bag straight through to XNA but I have to go through Customs in Dallas. No big deal. I make no mention of my flight change and neither does she. Therefore, no charge for the change! So now I sit down for a couple of hours until my flight leaves.
When I got the flight there were very few seats available—no aisle or window seats at all. However, because of my cough and cold, the agent put me in the middle of three empty seats.
After flying for nearly 10 hours I arrive in Dallas. It’s a surprisingly swift process getting my bag, going through Customs, and then rechecking my bag for the flight to XNA. Coincidentally, Dale is arriving in Dallas to attend a workshop at almost the same time. We cross paths at the gate for about 15 minutes. Such is married life!
An hour later, I’m home. Yea!!!!
Footnote #1:
What I had thought was a cold turned out to really be a virus. Most likely I had contracted it on the plane flight to Santiago. After I returned home it would be another week and a half before I felt well enough to return to work. It would be another six weeks before I finally felt 100%.
Footnote #2:
The following is an email received from Gabriel Cabrera, guide, local legend, and owner of the company that put on the expedition. He summarizes the results of all of this season’s expeditions. My expedition (Team 5) is in bold. (As you’ll note, his English isn’t the best.)
Dear friends of Aconcagua expeditions (1998, 1999, 2000, 2001) and other persons contacted me about Aconcagua previously and for 2002:(Spanish spoken friends: Sorry, Spanish version soon… – Amigos de habla hispana: Disculpas, la versión en español será enviada luego) Hi from Mendoza!!Finally we returned back from our last (6th) expedition to Aconcagua. The complete report of the season is the following:
TEAM 1: Wind and frostbites at early season.
Our 1st team (6 clients, 2 guides and 1 assistant) almost reach the top, for just about 200 m, but aborted by a strong wind storm in the summit. The barometer was some unstable in our expedition, with a perfectly predicted snowfall in our acclimatization period in plaza de Mulas (drop of 4 millibars since two day before), but previous to our climbing to upper camps we were affected by 3 days not working telephone in Plaza de Mulas for getting regional forecast (a mule kick the phone antenna), so we just obtained some isolated data by radio, indicating no regional systemd from Pacific could affect the area. But local registers shown 10 millibars drop at summit day: a strong local unstability. The canaleta welcome us with a strong 60 miles/hour wind. At 3:15 pm we were ending canaleta, but one of our members (Glenn) returned with one of our guides. At 4 pm we could be turn rightwards to reach the final ridge to the top, summiting maybe in one hour more. But in this moment a strong wind (evidenced by snow flying on top) decided me to abort the aim. Firstly I encouraged the team to continue, but Henry, the Southafrican member, told us about severe pain in their fingers. In THIS moment Dirk, one of the German members, show us their white fingers with early frozen symptoms. Then we descended quickly. A japanese team we had passed inj the Canaleta continued: the price was 6 members with frostbites, one of them with severe face and nose injuries…Henry and Dirk situation was caused for incomplete gear: just gloves (good gloves but unsufficient), but not mittens and over mitts as we strongly recommended. Affortunately Henry communicated early (Independencia hut) his finger cold early, and I changed his gloves by my OR mitts (then I put my hands in my pockets and used chemical handwarmers, without problems), but Dirk did not say never nothing about his fingers… An interesting observation is that nobody suffered cold in the feet (cold in feet is more usual than in hands), obviously indicating the problem was not merely low temperature, but windchil. Wind affected mainly elevated parts of the body, like hands and face. Dirk and Henry were derived quickly to Puente del Inca in helicopter and immediately to Mendoza hospital. Henry was outcomming but daily treatment was provided. Dirk was interned. Our insurance and agreements included initial services, and Dirk’s insurance covered his hospital internation. During some weeks after we keep contact with both: in their coutries, Henry had some skin grafts and lost of a bit of some fingertips and nails. Unfortunately Dirk lost some limbs of several fingers. Regarding technical conditions, no crampons were needed: the canaleta snowpath was widely melt and can be avoided walking on ground (walking is figurative: ground is very unstable and requires a very fatigous exercise). Anyway I recommend to bring always crampons: a new snowfall can alterate these conditions. In fact we summited with crampons since camp 2 in late February… TEAM 2: Easy climbing at New Year eve. Our “New Millennium Expedition” was a big group (26) from 9 countries: Mexico, USA, Italia, Denmark, Brazil, UK, Argentina, Israel ang a member from Guyana living in UK. 5 members booked in Option A, our exclusive service with 3 additional acclimatization days before the main group. After the firs trekking to C1 and back to PM we evaluated the group condition and split them into 3 groups: a faster of 5, a meddium of 11, and a slower of 9. Each with different guides and assistants. Usually these groups can climb independently, but in this case although weather forecast was ok, it presented a smooth trend to unstability for the next immediate days. For this reason we needed to go up quickly, avoiding to rest a convenient additionasl day in C1, as normally we do under reliable and good forecast contitions. Anyway, we leave Plaza de Mulas after 8 acclimatization days in the mountain, amout that we experienced very enough for. All the expedition (except one evacuated early from PM in helicopter with pulmonary edema) reached Berlin (5800 m). After climbing C1 and C2, our first summit in the season was on Dec 31st, the last day of the Century (Dec 31st) with our biggest expedition. The day was very nice, no wind, no cold. Of course, Aconcagua is very hard in any condition: 25 of our 26 clients reached Berlin ok, but the summit day 3 of them did not start the climbing and other 10 descended fatigued from different points with our guides. 4 of 7 guides (myself included) summited with 12 clients betwees 1 pm and 4 pm. This success rate of about 50% was a constant during all the season in our more big expeditions. No crampons were used. Ski poles are better than ice axe. Then no supergaiters can be used. Just regular gaiters. Of course, mits and overmits are mandatory and hand warmerd very recommended. Next day climate unstability begun. We descended to PM, then to PI, then to Mendoza. Just 3 days for preparing our next expedition. TEAMS 3 AND 4: A true friendship party.
On January we summited again with two simultaneous expeditions: one open international arranged with our associated Aymara from 9 countries with 17 members, another private of my company of 11 Argentinian members from Buenos Aires. Just one American member, Greg from Option A, must descend in helicopter due to an early pulmonary edema, we treated with oxygen in PM.
After acclimatization days in different activities, we were glad that both expeditions agreed in the climbing, and we reached camp 1 (Alaska camp) on Jan 16th and camp 2 on 17th: Lower White Rocks or Cholera camp for Intntnl group and Berlin for Ntnl group, due to space limitations for all the tents. Total expedition I commanded was 53 people considering climbers, guides and porters!! Our members came from Argentina, Australia, Norway, USA, Canada, Germany, Netherlands, Brazil and UK. Since the first day all the group was perfectly integrated as almost never I remember of another previous expedition. The expedition was a continue party plein of humour and fun.
Although regional Pacific weather forecast indicated stability (long term 5 days sunny, temperature trend descending), our local registers indicated closer bad weather. Then we move quickly to camp 2 but strong winds and snowfall reached us in camp 2. Immediately barometric pressure trend (measured always in Plaza de Mules an transmited twice daily by Leticia) started to rise, announcing a very probable nice day. Part of Argentinian group, impressed by the very windy night and accumulated snow, descended with one guide… But from the Intntnl team just did it an English couple, due to a bronchial affection and some secondary effects by using Diamox as preventive way, of lady Madeleine. She descended in helicopter to Puente del Inca, and her husband in mule with the guys of Buenos Aires. Some days after I visited them in the Mendoza hotel swimming pool, in perfect conditions.
A very quiet evening and night permitted us to sleep well, and we started activity at 3 am in both camps 600 m away, 50 m in level difference. Finally we started at 6:20 am. Day was very clear, almost no wind, but very cold. I was surprised at 6,000 m altitude finding two no guided German people using leather boots and trying to put themselves handwarmers under the socks with feet nude! A japanese couple went without mountain lenses. Realy, Aconcagua is an scenary for a lot of potential tragedies…
Somebody remained in the tents in the camps, as in our past expedition, other descended from different points, but from Independencia shelter all continued to the summit. I was very glad to reach the summit at first for receiving then another 20 people with an handshake/hug: at first, with me, the 4 from Buenos Aires group, then Leo and my assistant Gabriel (other Gabriel), then the guides Cacho, Papi, Martin and Andres with 8 from Int group (the first a Brigade General of USArmy, the last an Accountant of Buenos Aires city), between 2:10 to 3:30 pm, and 2 friends joining in Alaska camp. Almost as in our previous expedition (12 of 26 = 46.2%), in this case summited 8+4+2 of 17+11+2, = 14/30 = 46.7%, no guides considered.
The snowfall of the last night was a very oportune help, by consolidating all the trail in the Canaleta: as easy as to go upstairs!! No crampons were needed, but snow offered very conveniens steps.
I will not forget never this very enthusiast group of this double expedition. The following happy dinners in Plaza de Mulas, Puente del Inca and Mendoza, the visits in Mendoza to winefactories and the barbeque dinner in Papi’s home for the younger members, were just the continuation of the same party that was this expedition.
Without 15 pounds less, I leave Mendoza again to our fifth and sixth Ay-RH expeditions starting Jan 30th and Feb 10th. In this case my wife Leticia and me must remain 25 days in the mountain because our 5th expedition started on Jan 30th and end on Feb 13th (in Mendoza), overlaping our 6th team starting in Feb 10th (from Mendoza). Both groups crossed them in Confluencia while I rested of the summit day in Plaza de Mulas…
The former group, our 5th team, was a nice international group of 20 from 12 countries (our record at the moment) : USA, Argentina, Japan, Italy, Ireland, New Zealand, Brazil, Switzerland, Uruguay, Belgium, Canada, Germany. Unfortunately 3 members (Rob, Bob and Hugo) returned early from PM because of family problems, mountain sickness and bronchial problems. Due to the very reliable weather forcast we remained two days in camp 1, Feb 7 and 8, then we went to camp 2. Usually we use Berlin as C2, but in these dates it was very crowded and we decided to go to Lower White Rocks (also called Colera camp), just 15 minutes away Berlin, 25 m above in level.
After our acclimatization days, barometric pressure begun to descend, but due to the relatively high value (6 hPa above normal) days continued being extraordinarilly sunny and clear, but strong winds started on the second night in camp 1 causing a lot of climbers returned back from their aim to summit, and after our arrival to camp 2 we done a great effort for mounting tents. This evening I was challenged to take a critical decission: either to wait one additional day in C2 for an uncertain weather change (pressure remaining unchanged) or go up confiding for a wind decreasing at noon theoretically due to solar heating in a stable barometric pressure… I decided the second.
We leave C2 at 7:30 (a few late due to wind) with a strong but a bit more smooth wind. Mike and a guide remained in the tent. Thomas returned few minutes later… for to see his tent DISSAPEARED (containing his and John’s and Connor’s sleeping bags). Other tent of Taniguchy and Yamamoto (both The North Face Himalayan Hotel tents) was destroyed but the gear recovered by Michael and the guide Fabian. We reached Independencia hut (6370 m) at 9:30, where Robert and the two Japanese descended to C2 with the guide Adriana.
Wind begun to diminish. Later, at the Canaleta, wind almost was nonexistent. Juan Manuel abandoned at Canaleta entry, Bill at middle, both returning with the guide Papi. I remained 3 HOURS at the end of Canaleta waiting for Yachiyo, our little Japanese woman, but her speed was not enough. The guides Eduardo and Pablo reached the summit with 9 members, then descended and guided Yachiyo down. Finally I summited at last with our youngest guide assistant Federico (just his 2nd summit).
When Adriana returned to C2 at noon, she sent the assistant Fabian down for guiding Mike and Thomas to Plaza de Mulas, and she communicate me by radio our tents lost. Once in the camp, we rearranged the tents, the guides Papi and Eduardo slept without sleeping bags (brrrrrr…). The wind restarted strongly at midnight. At morning each tent must to be dismounted by 5 people, 1 inside. Finally all the expedition can reach Plaza de Mulas hotel. Farewell dinner, champagne and a bottle of white wine that the Italians and the Swiss ported to the summit.
Feb 12. Wind. My daugther Melisa managed the expedition descend to Puente del Inca. Leticia and me sent the luggage by mules. Sleeeeeepppp!!!
As in the previous expedition, this was a very enthusiast group , signed for the jokes to the japanese woman Yachiyo, the kind gentlemen as John of NZ and Connor of Eire, the excellent humour of Italians and Swiss members, the friendship of the Uruguayan, the taaaller USA brothers Bill and Mike, etc.: all wonderful !!. Unfortunately I cannot descend with them to Mendoza for enjoy the nice dinners and the bowling games they organized with Melisa…
TEAM 6: Few and nice.
Feb 13. Sleeping all the morning. Our 6th expedition arrives at 5 pm guided by Leo from Puente del Inca – Confluencia – Plaza Francia – Confluencia: 6 people from USA, UK and Singapore (woman). Same acclimatization pathern: day 1 arrival, day 2 rest, day 3 glacier trekking 5 hours, day 4 camp 1 and back to PM, day 5 rest, day 6 move to C1. Hemoglobine oxygen saturation in 4 of 6 in the group was very high: 92%. Barometric pressure decreassed in the acclimatization period, no wind but… electrical storms. A lot of snow in hard balls (graupel) and lightning during 3 days. We decided to bring crampons to C1. Finally BP begun to rise.
Camp 1 in Alaska Camp, terrorific lightning storm in the evening and night that isolate the porter Ruben in camp Canada (300 m below). Suddenly the calm and the stars, and I descend solo to camp Canada at 1 AM for search Ruben. Very nice solo trip on the fresh snow lighted by Jupiter and Syrius…
Feb 19. To Berlin. Snow and elecric storm at evening. Because this repetitive storm timetable, I decided to leave Berlin to summit early. We started at 5:20 am. A narrow almost new moon appears at 6:45 and sun at 7:15. A bright day. No wind, plein of snow. All the people reached the Canaleta, and the guide Leo remained at the base of Canaleta waiting for abandons. The guide Pablo returned from 6600 m (lower third of Canaleta) with Fabrizio (a listmember) and give him to Leo. Pablo wait in this point for the people descending from the summit. Colin (UK), Melanie, Bruce and Scott (USA) summited before me. I summited with Wee Leng (Singapore) one hour and a half after, at 2:15 pm. At 3:45 a dense cloud cover us in the Canaleta. Smooth snow flakes felt on us. Leticia call me from Berlin: all people arrived ok. Wee Leng and me arrived on 6 pm. Clouds in the summit, sun in Berlin. Next day, we done our traditional farewell for the rangers, medical service and rescue service of Aconcagua park: a goat BBQ with our clients in Plaza de Mulas hotel.
Then, barometric pressure descended during 3 days, and bad weather arrives on Feb 25. We arrived to Mendoza City at Vintage Festival, and all the expedition got a terrific BBQ seeing the fireworks in the down town. Temperature: +35°C (+95°F).
Thanks Melanie and Scott for your excellent humour, Colin for your companionship, Bruce for your story, Wee Leng for your great effort to reach the summit, and my friend Fabrizio for your generosity. See you later in the future, I am sure!!
SUMMARY:
This was the end of our Aconcagua season. This was the more succesfull of all of our seasons in Aconcagua, and I was the guide with more climbers: 86 from 22 countries in 6 expeditions (some listmembers of climb_aconcagua), 38 summited. Detail is the following:
1- Dec 2000: 6 climbers, 0 summit (very early season…)
2- Dec/Jan 2001: 26 climbers, 12 summit on 31 Dec.
3- Jan 2001: 17 climbers, 8 summited on Jan 19.
4- Jan 2001: 11 climbers, 4 summited on Jan 19 (simultaneous to above).
5- Jan/Feb 2001: 20 climbers, 9 summited on Feb 10.
6- Feb 2001: 6 climbers, 5 summited on Feb 20.
Just Fabrizio, a nice Chilean person living in USA did no summit in the last team. No worry, Fabrizio, the adventure in Africa 2001 Expedition is waiting for us on September, may be a ski week in July.
For the moment, Leticia and me are leaving Mendoza on March 16 to Robison Crusoe Island, South Pacific Ocean… Then, during April, we will design our Aconcagua 2002 season. We estimate over 120 people for next season, so we will make some changes: fixed camps 1 and 2 (do not descend tents all the season, no more lot of porters), 7 dates every 10 days, 2 dates for Falso Polish (complete Aconcagua circunvalation from Vacas valley to Horcones valley, etc. For the moment visit www.aconcagua2001.com.ar for further info, but our new www.aconcagua2002.com.ar since April for news. I will post the definitive report in the web later.
MY CHALLENGE:
At last, I apologize for some personal words: I want to say that this season was critical and very important for me, because my motorbike accident 3 years ago that nearly amputed my leg at knee level. After 10 operations, against all medical forecasts I recovered myself 100%. I went Aconcagua in helicopter in 1999 and managed the expedition (34 people) from a bed in Plaza de Mulas, and guided in 2000 season two expeditions in the glacier using external fixators in my leg. They summited with my assistant guides. This season 2000/1 the four summits I guided personally is the result of fight for the live. Thanks to my relatives, my friends, God and my clients that rely me . Thanks to the Aconcagua, the Stone Sentinel.
EPILOG:
The Stone Sentinel continues giving us the freshwater for irrigate my farm and my little vineyard and olive trees in Coquimbito, Maipu district, Mendoza province, my little paradise where I live now. This week Leticia and me will begin the vintage for make one of the best Malbec winne in the world. Of course, thanks again to the generous water from the Stone Sentinel.
Gabriel Cabrera
AAGM National Mountain Guide
Mendoza, Argentina
…and Leticia, Melisa, Leo, Papi, Edu, Pablo, Adriana, Diego, Laucha, Fabian, Ruben. Thank you.